Rwanda: The rains are here … and so is the sorrow
Posted on 31st March, 2014 in RAS News
Richard Dowden spent last week touring South Africa looking at projects where the country leads the world or is working on things you would not expect to find in Africa. This is the first of his reports. Each day this week he will add a short description of another project.
In South Africa last week I saw: a mobile robot being programmed, a magical film studio, a radio telescope system that explores galaxies and dark matter, polluted mine water being purified. And I went down a coal mine.
Meanwhile, South Africa’s newspapers ran reams on the Pistorius murder trial and the row over the 200 Million Rand (£11.3 million) ‘renovation’ of President Jacob Zuma’s private residence at Nkandla.
Everyone knows what news is but no one can define it. In my experience humans are drawn mostly to the bad stuff. The coverage of success is often limited to lives of celebrities that we identify with but envy. So the headlines are full of human dramas, scandals and celebs that feed that human need – plus a bit of politics. But if you treat ‘the news’ as a first draft of this week’s human progress, you will be misled – it does not give a comprehensive picture of where a country, or the entire human race, is headed.
Africa – including South Africa – has suffered from this. It has been a source of ‘bad’ news stories because its day to day life and politics do not affect western countries or interest western media. Until recently only the disasters, the wars, the suffering got covered and that has accumulated into a picture of perpetual – and continent-wide – African misery.
South Africa’s fundamental reality is that the vast majority are much better off than they were 20 years ago when Nelson Mandela was elected president. Real per capita incomes are 27% higher. The economy has grown by more than 60% since he was let out of jail. Yet there is a widespread feeling that the country is not where it could be or should be. The gap between rich and poor has widened and many South Africans are worse off than they were then.
When the government set up Brand South Africa to promote a better global perception image of the country I wrote an article saying this was nonsense. Improve the reality, I said, and the image will take care of itself. Branding also seemed a commercial concept which should not be applied to nation states. The word should be ‘reputation’.
But because journalism tends to deal with bad news or single issues, these became The Narrative in places like Africa and other parts of the world whose progress has little global impact on America or Europe. The story of Columbia is drugs, the story of Brazil is the rainforest, and the story of Australia is bush fires (and cricket). Africa’s story is war, poverty and elephants.
And the story becomes the one-dimensional image – usually created by outsiders. And the image affects investment decisions. So I now concede that African countries do need to try to manage how they are viewed by the rest of the world. And that means bringing in journalists to write about progress and improvements as well as disasters, war and hunger. So last week I accepted an invitation to visit South Africa to look at some of the better things it is doing in the lead-up to the May 7th election.
We were a small but diverse group – two young Chinese workaholic women journalists, a tall, quiet American, a British Turkish woman who writes for an Africa magazine, the editor of AllAfrica.com who is Nigerian-American and a South African journalist. With our black South African guides we were hard to label. The first destination was not good; a trip to a poor part of Soweto, a reception area where people newly-arrived from rural areas stay while they look for somewhere to live. It felt like a visit to the zoo with the ‘local’ guides as the keepers. We were assured that what we were seeing was real and told not to hand out money, but any encounter between poor people and tourists is very uncomfortable and unreal. They know the patter to feed the visitors and I sensed they had learned their lines.
Then we drove through Diepkloof, the posh part of Soweto, where I noticed that the smart two or three story freestanding houses, unlike houses of the same size in the richer parts of the northern (formerly whites only) suburbs, had little protection. And their very smart Mercedes, BMWs and some even flashier cars were parked in the street – unthinkable in the northern suburbs. No one steals here I am told. “If you steal a car from here people will see it and find the thief. But if you steal a car in the northern suburbs, the owner will not dare to look for it here,” says my guide.
We then drove to the Soweto museum near the Hector Pietersen memorial which marks the death of the 14 year-old demonstrating student, shot by police in the 1976 student uprising. The picture of his body being carried away is one of the iconic images of that era, as powerful as the picture of the burning Vietnamese girl fleeing her napalmed village. The museum gives the squalid history of Soweto’s beginnings in the 1930s and the fight-back in pictures and film on loops.
The biggest transformation I saw was around the Regina Mundi Catholic church where so many meetings were held, demonstrations began and people were shot or clubbed by police. I remember the church in the late 1970s as a bleak, barren ground covered in broken things, stones and rubbish. Nearby was a tiny shack, the clinic where the great Albertina Sisulu worked as a nurse. She was banned from organising meetings so could only meet one person at a time. I went to see her and, once she had completed her work in the clinic and was able to meet me alone, she made me tea and told me about life, misery and hope in Soweto. Then on her fingers she counted her close family. All were either in prison or exile except one who was at university: “I don’t know where I went wrong with that one,’ she said lightly.
Now the clinic is gone and the whole area is grassed over and a tree-lined avenue leads to the front of the church. Groups of coolly dressed kids hang out, laughing and chatting. And the thick yellow Soweto smog from the power station and a million small coal fires has gone, replaced by electricity. The endless rows of tiny brick houses without water or electricity have mostly been rebuilt, except for Mandela’s old house in Orlando which is now a museum and tourist venue surrounded by stands selling merchandise. I found it hard to feel what it was really like. However, I was shocked to see that many of the notorious hostels are still being used. Built to cram in migrant workers from all over southern Africa, some still do not have running water.
In the few unused spaces in Soweto, squatter camps of corrugated iron and plank shacks still spring up as more and more migrants come to the city, but they are gradually being transformed into new homes. In the past a white man standing here would have been watched warily and at times attacked depending on the anger levels. Last week I never felt anything but safe. Instead I felt comfortably ignored. The only time my stomach churned was when one of our group, Sinem from Turkey, decided to do the bungie jump from a platform between the two cooling towers at the disused power station.